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  HOW TO JUMP FROM A RUNAWAY SLEIGH

  Abandoning the sleigh should be a last resort. If the sleigh is headed for imminent peril, however, you will need to jump.

  1. Move to the edge of the sleigh.

  Remain seated until the last moment, holding on to the seat or railing.

  2. Stuff your clothing with blankets or seat cushions to reduce the impact.

  Give yourself as much protective padding as is readily available.

  3. Open the sleigh door, if there is one.

  4. Pick your landing spot.

  If you can, wait until the horse rounds a bend, since it may slow down. The ideal landing spot will be well covered with soft snow and free of trees, rocks, and bushes.

  5. Crouch low to the floor of the sleigh.

  Bend your knees.

  6. Jump perpendicular to the sleigh.

  Leaping at a right angle away from the sleigh will make it much less likely for you to fall under the runners. Leap as far away as you can.

  7. Cover your head.

  Use your hands and arms to protect your head.

  8. Land flat.

  Do not attempt to land on your feet or do a somersault. Keep your body straight and try to land so that all parts of your body hit the ground at the same time. This will spread the impact over a wider area.

  9. Roll like a log.

  HOW TO FEND OFF A CHARGING REINDEER

  1. Stand your ground.

  Most reindeer have been bred to be docile livestock; they are sometimes referred to as “tundra cows.” They will run around, rather than over, a standing person, even when charging in a herd.

  2. Watch for reindeer in rut.

  Reindeer mate from late August to October, when they will be in rut, or heat, and much more dangerous. Each male, or bull, will keep a harem of females and will become unpredictable and aggressive with any person who approaches. While both male and female reindeer have antlers, male reindeer are noticeably larger, weighing 400 pounds or more. During rut, necks on males will be large and swollen.

  3. Watch for front-leg kicking.

  When disturbed, reindeer will rear up on the hind legs and kick out with the front hooves. Females are generally not dangerous except when defending calves. Stay well back and to the side to avoid being kicked. During rut, reindeer bulls will try to gore rather than kick, if antagonized.

  4. Watch for antler display.

  Before goring, a male will often attempt to intimidate by showing, or “presenting,” its antlers, turning his head to the side. Be wary in approaching or cornering a bull reindeer during this display.

  5. Back up slowly.

  Speak to the reindeer in a soft voice. Do not make any sudden movements.

  6. Do not raise your arms over your head.

  The bull may take this as a challenge sign that you are also displaying antlers.

  7. If the reindeer attempts to gore you, grab the antlers.

  Grasp one branch with each hand and attempt to steer the head away from you. If the reindeer tries to lunge forward, you may not be able to stop it, but guiding the antlers may allow you to redirect its charge.

  8. Move to the side quickly as you release the antlers.

  The reindeer will now be beside you and may just move away. Do not run, or you will call attention to yourself. Carefully put distance between yourself and the reindeer.

  9. Call for help.

  Using a voice and tone that does not further antagonize the reindeer, advise others in the area of your situation. They may be able to distract the reindeer, if it is still in pursuit.

  Be Aware

  Caribou, which are much more aggressive and dangerous, are often mistaken for reindeer. Reindeer have shorter legs and are rounder.

  Male reindeer have huge antlers, with as many as 14 to 18 points per side.

  HOW TO RESCUE SOMEONE STUCK IN A CHIMNEY

  1. Obtain a long, sturdy rope.

  Make sure the rope is longer than the length of the chimney. You will need approximately 10 feet of rope for each story (including the attic), plus 10 additional feet.

  2. Tie a knot in the rope every two feet.

  3. Position yourself on the roof of the house.

  The opening of the chimney at the fireplace end is probably too narrow for you to pull the person out. You must perform your rescue from above.

  4. Communicate with the person.

  Make sure that the person who is stuck is still conscious and able to help with the rescue. Tell him you are coming.

  5. Lower the rope down the chimney.

  The rope should be tied securely around the chimney or another immovable object. Slowly feed the other end hand-over-hand down the chimney.

  6. Tell the victim to grab the rope.

  Holding onto the knots provides both you and the victim a better grip.

  7. Pull the victim up.

  Unless you are much larger than the victim (and very strong), you will not be able to pull the victim out unaided. The victim can help by using footholds to brace and climb. If the victim cannot climb out or otherwise help in the rescue, enlist others to help you pull the rope.

  8. Call the fire department.

  If you cannot extricate the person from the chimney, call the fire department for assistance.

  HOW TO CLIMB DOWN A CHIMNEY

  1. Feel and smell for a lighted fire.

  Do not enter a chimney that is hot or smoking.

  2. Assess the size and type of chimney.

  Some chimney flues may be as narrow as 12 by 12 inches, too small for an adult to enter. Chimneys 24 by 24 inches or larger are ideal. Big, old houses are more likely to have large chimneys and less likely to have an entry-impending damper at the bottom.

  3. Remove the chimney cap.

  Many chimney openings are covered with a cap to prevent animals from entering the flue. The cap will have either four short legs tucked into the chimney and held in place by gravity, or four pressure screws attached to the inside surface of the flue.

  4. Examine the inner surface of the chimney.

  Use a flashlight to peer into the flue. Homes built after 1935 may have a flue lined with clay tiles. Older homes have unlined brick flues. Brick flues have a more irregular surface, offering better hand and footholds. Some newer homes may have metal-lined flues. Avoid these, as they offer minimal traction.

  5. Enter the chimney feet first.

  Keep your hands above you and hold onto irregular bricks or spaces in the mortar joints. If the chimney is clay-lined, concentrate on the joints between the clay tiles for your handholds and footholds. These joints are two feet apart. The chimney is likely narrow enough that you can lean back against one wall while bracing your feet on the opposite wall.

  6. Move slowly toward the bottom of the chimney.

  You will quickly be covered with creosote (hardened soot) unless the chimney has recently been cleaned. Fresh creosote may be powdery and difficult to grip, or sticky (formed by burning moist wood), aiding your descent. Old creosote will be hard, shiny, and very slick. Keep your body straight to lessen the chance of getting stuck on sticky soot.

  7. Look for the smoke chamber.

  This brick-lined area is below the flue and has large amounts of soot and creosote. When you reach the smoke chamber, you will be just above the smoke shelf and close to the bottom of the chimney.

  8. Use the smoke shelf to brace yourself.

  The smoke shelf is a few feet above the hearth (the area where the fire is made, also called the “firebox”). This angled brick shelf is off to the bottom rear of the flue. It catches rain and funnels the wider area of smoke that comes from the hearth into the narrower passage of the flue. You may be able to rest your feet on it before continuing.

  9. Open the damper.

  Most fireplaces have a damper, a metal door that slides or swings closed to prevent drafts and to keep heat from escaping up the flue when no fire is present. Open the damper by pulling it toward you; use a heavy magnet
if you cannot pull it open by hand. Some dampers use a screw-type mechanism that can be opened only from inside the house: If it or the damper is too small to pass through, or is screwed shut, you will have to climb back out the top of the chimney.

  10. Lower yourself into the hearth.

  If you can see the hearth, and can fit through the opening, carefully drop down into the fireplace and enter the house. Beware of an andiron or logs on the hearth floor.

  HOW TO SURVIVE A RUNAWAY SLED

  1. Quickly survey the topography.

  If you are sledding in a wide-open field with few obstacles and no danger of a precipice, stay on the sled and ride it out. The sled will eventually stop once you reach level ground.

  2. Slow the sled using emergency steering and braking.

  Steer the sled side to side to slow it down. Drag your feet (if feet first) or hands and feet (if head first) to slow the sled or to steer.

  3. Redirect the sled.

  Turn the sled onto a course that traverses the hill, if possible. Gradually try to turn uphill to lose speed. An abrupt turn could send you flipping out of control.

  4. Roll off the sled.

  Perform a single, sideways roll off the sled. If you were on your stomach, you will now be on your back sliding head-first down the hill. Roll one more time so that you are on your stomach. If you were riding the sled feet-first, you will be on your stomach sliding feet-first down the hill.

  5. Protect, then roll.

  If tumbling out of control on a hill with obstacles, protect your head and face.

  6. Dig the toes of your shoes into the snow.

  Dragging (if head first) or digging (if feet first) with your toes to slow your descent only works on powdery snow. If you are on hard-packed snow, do not dig your feet while sliding or you risk flipping over.

  7. Use your hands.

  Dig your hands into the snow in “dog paddle” fashion. If you are sliding head first, this will cause your legs to swing around, and you will be descending more safely feet first. Avoid running into trees and do not grab stationary objects: An abrupt stop may dislocate a shoulder.

  8. Once stopped, push up from the side of the hill.

  Get up by moving your weight to your hands and feet. (Synthetic clothing slides on snow and tends to make the body function as a sled.)

  9. Climb or descend the hill slowly or wait for help.

  Do not remain in the middle of a hill being used by sledders unless you are unable to move. Retrieve your sled only if you can proceed safely.

  Be Aware

  If multiple riders have to abandon the sled, dive off the sled on opposite sides, at staggered intervals, so that you do not injure each other when you roll.

  HOW TO WIN A SNOWBALL FIGHT

  1. Test the snow.

  Stick a twig, chopstick, or a thin utensil in the snow and pull it out quickly to determine the packing consistency. It should go in and come out smoothly, not hitting icy or solid patches. Snowball snow should not be frozen, nor should it be too dry (“powder”) or too wet (“granular” or “corn”). The snow needs just enough moisture to hold together as you shape it.

  2. Doctor the snow.

  The best air temperature for snowball making is above 5° F and below 32° F. If the air temperature is below 5° F, warm the snow in your hands before attempting to make a snowball.

  3. Establish a base camp.

  Find a suitable location with good sight lines and plenty of fresh snow (see “How to Build a Snow Fort”). Consider keeping a wall at your back to thwart flanking maneuvers.

  4. Begin preparations.

  Make as many snowballs as you can in advance of the battle. A good snowball should be larger than a golf ball but smaller than a cantaloupe, and should hold its shape when others are stacked on top of it.

  5. Build a snowball sled.

  Secure a wooden produce crate or waxed cardboard box to a sled’s rope. Fill the box with snowballs. Use the snowball sled to transport ammunition or a fresh supply of snow.

  6. Use shields.

  Maintain a supply of garbage can lids with handles; use these for shields during battle.

  7. Aim low and throw straight.

  Snowball fight rules dictate that hitting in the face is forbidden. Aim for the chest or lower body. Ice balls or snowballs containing foreign material are also considered unfair.

  8. Secure prisoners.

  Snowball fight rules provide for the taking of prisoners: An enemy hit three times is considered captured. Captives may not be forced to fight their comrades, but may be pressed into service as snowball makers.

  HOW TO MAKE SNOWBALLS

  1. Scoop up two handfuls of snow.

  2. Press your hands together around the snow to create a sphere.

  3. Squeeze and rotate the sphere.

  Add snow or take some away, squeeze, and rotate, until the ball is perfectly round. A smooth, perfectly rounded ball is more aerodynamic and will throw better. Make sure it is easy to pick up and throw.

  4. Make more snowballs.

  Good snowballs made from the right consistency snow will stack easily and not stick together. Keep a pile within arm’s reach.

  HOW TO BUILD A SNOW FORT

  A Snow-Mound Fort

  1. Find a pile of freshly plowed snow.

  Snow plows create huge mounds of snow, saving you the trouble of creating one. Look in parking lots or on street corners for such piles. The pile should be at least four feet tall and several feet wide at the base. You will build your fort into this mound. Do not pick a mound on an active street that is likely to be replowed.

  2. Compress the snow.

  If you can find a big piece of plywood—about the size of a door—place it on top of the mound and use it to compress the snow until the mound is about four feet high. If you cannot locate plywood, lie down on the mound. Use good packing snow (see “How to Win a Snowball Fight”).

  3. Dig into the back of the mound.

  Create a small entrance hole, strategically placed so the enemy cannot see or attack it easily.

  4. Hollow out the mound.

  Dig out the center of the mound, pushing the snow out of the entrance hole. Use this snow for making snowballs.

  5. Make peepholes.

  Punch through the wall opposite the entrance with your fist or the handle of a shovel every several feet to create observation holes. These will enable you to detect a surprise attack.

  6. Defend your fort.

  A fort that is overrun can be used by your enemies.

  A Block Fort

  1. Find a wooden produce crate or waxed cardboard box.

  The box should be no larger than 1½ by 2 feet. Remove the flaps, if any, from the top. Utilize several boxes and people to expedite the process.

  2. Pack the box with snow.

  Pack tightly, with as little air as possible.

  3. Remove the snow block.

  Turn the box over. Gently pull the sides of the box or tap the sides of the box until the block slides out.

  4. Amass snow blocks.

  Repeat steps 2 and 3 until you have several dozen snow blocks.

  5. Build an igloo-shaped structure.

  Place the bottom level of blocks in a circle 6 to 8 feet in diameter. Leave an open spot for the door. Stack the next layer on top, offsetting the ends in the traditional bricklaying pattern, and moving each block in a few inches toward the center. On either side of the door opening, move the blocks toward each other by a few inches, to make a roughly triangular opening. Repeat until the blocks meet at the top and there is enough room for you to crawl in. (You may need to trim blocks before placing them at the very top of the fort.) Omit a few blocks at eye level for windows.

  6. Fill in the cracks.

  Use snow to fill in the spaces between the blocks.

  7. Reinforce.

  Sprinkle the fort with water from a watering can and let the fort set overnight. In the morning it will be a hardened bastion.

  Be
Aware

  You may not always have time to get inside your fort when attacked. A good snow fort should be high enough to protect you from incoming snowballs if you hide behind it, but it should also be low enough for you to see around and throw over.

  Keep a stash of snowballs inside the fort.

  In case of a long, sustained siege, keep drinks, food, and blankets in the fort. Set them in a corner, out of the way of the action.

  Divide your manpower so there are scouts and hurlers outside, and snowball makers inside.

  HOW TO TREAT A TONGUE STUCK TO A POLE

  1. Do not panic.

  2. Do not pull the tongue from the pole.

  Pulling sharply will be very painful.

  3. Move closer to the pole.

  Get as close as possible without letting more of the tongue’s surface area touch the pole.